Editorials
Painting Faces: The ‘X’ Trilogy and Its Reverence for Makeup
The X trilogy is ever a love letter to cinema. Though the first installment is built around a cluster of young people making pornography, it still highlights its love to the craft of filmmaking by having characters directly refer to the art and also by being set in the late-70s and dressed up in that era’s horror aesthetic. While various crafts are highlighted, the series makes a lot of room for the art of painting faces for a collection of effects. With MaXXXine, the third installment in the Ti West and Mia Goth franchise, now gracing the silver screen, the love for classic eras of cinema is ever palpable. Within that is the love for all things cinema makeup, beauty and FX.
X was perhaps unassuming when it snuck up on 2022 audiences with its distinct 70s look. It didn’t at all lack period appropriate hairstyles and eyewear. Though Bobby-Lynn (Brittany Snow) is built as the standout bombshell, it’s Maxine (Mia Goth) who steals the styled spotlight, us first seeing her under the lights of a vanity mirror. The denim clad farm girl is almost never without her signature powder blue eyelids, even as she takes a solo dip in a dangerous pond. And where the beauty makeup stops, Maxine’s freckles begin, meant to be real though applied meticulously to Goth before the actress stepped in front of the camera.

Speaking to Bloody Disgusting in 2022, trilogy hair and makeup department head, Sarah Rubano discussed the process of creating the looks with the detail-oriented director. “Maxine and her freckles and her eyeshadow […] I just worked with Ti back and forth. He said, ‘Listen, I want to make them beautifully colorful. I want you to lean into the aesthetic here.’”
It’s the beauty makeup that distinguishes the double-triple-quadruple franchise roles of chameleon, Goth. But then there’s the aged Pearl hiding in plain sight. At the time of the first film in the series, there’s almost no reason to suspect that the creepy old lady at the farmhouse is anyone but an actress with thinning hair. But it’s Goth in yet another costume. Setting up what would end up being Goth led follow ups, the film used makeup to keep her in plain sight and lay the foundation of connection that would hold the series together. Where X could have started and stopped at 70s hair and gore FX, it leaned further into its reverence for the art of filmmaking by allowing different types of makeup to shine. Framed by the velvety lyrics of “Landslide,” Pearl is seen touching her own aged skin surrounded by vintage makeup packaging. Shortly thereafter, a youthful Lorraine (Jenna Ortega) is seen getting painted up for her turn in front of the camera.

Returning quickly as a younger Pearl, Goth comes back into frame in the second feature with a completely different look. With makeup (and perhaps color grading), Goth’s skin is warmer and deeper, the freckles washed away, and her face dressed in darkened lashes and a hot lip. Pearl is fresh faced with pops of color, and one of her big moments has her stained with running mascara. (Though it has ancient origins, the products that propelled Maybelline and Rimmel in the 1910s were early versions of mascara made from petroleum jelly and charcoal. They were messy).
Pearl is a completely different sort of movie, shedding the aesthetic of a 70s slasher for a sparkly classic Hollywood look with plot elements evocative of The Wizard of Oz. Pearl is in technicolor, dropping the muted blues and cool-toned freckles for pinky cheeks and opaque lip color. Goth’s reappearance is buoyed not just by her acting ability, but by Rubano and company’s artful work to give her a completely different look, thereby distinguishing the characters.

Wrapping the trilogy comes MaXXXine which brings back Goth in her original role as Maxine, this time as an 80s broad looking to paint over the version of herself she left at the bloody farmhouse. As Hollywood Maxine, she is arguably someone completely new, having committed more fully to her ruthless nature and being adorned with bleached hair that she lets set into natural waves. The signature blue shadow is gone, her face now painted with a less hastily applied gun metal eye. But her looks don’t start and stop here. Where all three installments in the franchise are about a love for film, leaning on meta-elements, MaXXXine further highlights the spectacle by having Maxine prepare for a studio picture that echoes her reality with a fundamentalist reaction to satanism. Goth, who prepared for X by sitting for a life cast to be made into Pearl, is seen as Maxine sitting for a life cast to prepare for her movie role in The Puritan II. And it pays off, not just in-world but for more meta gags. “Real” heads roll, and a “fake” head is in the center of the feature’s closing shot, Maxine having gazed upon it in awe.
When we’re first introduced to her in X, Maxine is sitting at a makeup mirror. In MaXXXine, she’s seen applying her makeup similarly before her adult film shoot, and later with an airbrush to splash on a beauty look that ends up functioning as war paint. Makeup is treated with a reverence beyond just creating signature looks, but also by reveling in the technique to create character, beauty, and horror, all which hold the real movie and the in-world one together.

Editorials
André Øvredal’s ‘Troll Hunter’ Remains One of the Best Found Footage Movies
In this day and age, the word “troll” is often used to describe various online nuisances. Yet as abundant and irksome as the modern troll can be, they aren’t usually as fearsome as their mythological counterparts. I’m not talking about the small and gentler versions that have become more common to see in media. No, there are much bigger and scarier trolls out there—and André Øvredal’s movie Troll Hunter is one of the best places to find them.
It doesn’t take long for Troll Hunter (or Trolljegeren) to dump the Blair Witch Project-esque setup and aim for something a lot fresher. The trajectory of the story is augmented by Otto Jespersen’s character Hans, the titular Troll Hunter. The second he comes barreling out of the deep, dark woods and shouts “troll” at the camera, this movie takes a turn into what feels like uncharted territory. Not only subject-wise, but also conceptually.
For fantastical and made-up subject matter in cinema, found footage is a fast way to add a guise of believability. After all, what we accept to be the most crucial aspect of documentaries—the truth—rubs off on pseudo-documentaries, despite our understanding of the pretense involved. That is what Øvredal delivered with Troll Hunter: a movie so convincing that some viewers wondered if trolls really do exist. So, had this been straightforwardly made, it likely wouldn’t have been as effective. Conventional narratives would be more inclined to treat something like trolls as flat out unreal, and never try to convince the audience to think otherwise.

Hans petrifies the three-headed Tusseladd troll.
The viewers, like the characters trailing Hans, are quickly thrown into the deeper end of that extraordinary story. They have to process all this new information while staying on the go. So, although there is no significant amount of meandering, narratively or physically, there is still a good amount of atmosphere, not to mention tension building. It’s never anything frightful, but then again, Troll Hunter isn’t your standard offering of horror; it’s more on the low end of the dark fantasy spectrum. We aren’t ever spirited away to a faraway world—we stay in rather familiar surroundings, as well as dip into those less so. The outcome is a movie where you’re constantly more in awe than in terror.
As fantasy fiction might do, Troll Hunter prefers not to deal with incredulity. There is no time to waste on doubt, as interviewer Thomas (Glenn Erland Tosterud), soundperson Johanna (Johanna Mørck), and cameraman Kalle (Tomas Alf Larsen) all follow Hans around, recording whatever this character is willing to reveal about his bizarre job. Of course, the Troll Hunter himself is not an open book; in that respect, the diegetic documentary fails to fully capture and unpack the more interesting of its two subjects. Yes, all those giant, monstrous trolls are indeed incredible, but understandably, your mind wanders to their pursuer. What kind of person signs up for this gig and then chooses to stick with it for so long?
Reviews have called out Troll Hunter for its lack of character development. In regard to Thomas and his fellow documentarians, that criticism is valid, but bear in mind, they aren’t the focus of the story, either. Meanwhile, Hans is a well-crafted character. At least better than first realized. Before he was introduced, Hans had already grown tired of the troll grind. Fed up with that low compensation for his services, resentful of the bureaucracy, and wanting to expose his employer on a large scale, Hans’ discontent is glaring.
Then there are those finer details about the Troll Hunter, such as that indifference to both the natural splendor of his everyday surroundings and the affections of an obviously smitten colleague, that also suggest some level of despondency. So it is fair to say this movie doesn’t feature any sizable growth for its characters; however, the namesake isn’t underwritten. No doubt, putting a real-life character like Otto Jespersen in that role is partly why Hans is so fascinating—maybe even relatable.

Otto Jespersen as Hans the Troll Hunter.
There is always a small risk whenever using the term “mockumentary” to describe a found-footage movie, as the word could imply humor where there is none. In the case of Troll Hunter, the term’s usage is appropriate. Some folks have claimed the English-dubbed version has the more comedic tone, however, the Norwegian cut isn’t exactly humorless. Apart from the trolls’ absurd appearances, this is a movie where the characters nearly choke on the monsters’ farts, and Christians are like walking targets. Hans’ complete apathy towards everything is another cause of laughter. Overall, the comedy is intentionally dry and inconsistent. Unfunny, though? Absolutely not.
In a movie where endemic creatures are maltreated, as well as disavowed from living freely and peacefully, it’s hard not to notice the ecological message buried beneath the story. In addition to that is the unmistakable political satire. There is this whole business about intrusive and unsightly power lines—like trolls, they’re big blemishes on the land—that leads to what is perhaps the movie’s funniest moment. The scene in question is that one where certain electric lines, the ones secretly being used to keep the trolls at bay, go in a loop and don’t actually send power to any residents. Yet the monitors of said lines don’t find this at all weird. So it stands to reason that Øvredal was having a go at those who accept the government’s doings without question.
Looking past the fact that trolls aren’t actually real, this movie is an enlightening source of information. And not just for international audiences; Norwegians, too, get schooled about their homeland’s own mythology. It’s also evident from everything on screen that Øvredal and his crew were enthusiastic about the topic. The creature designs are the most indicative of that zeal; those imaginative yet myth-accurate manifestations are equally amusing and grotesque. One second you’re laughing at their phallic noses, the next you’re white-knuckling during a hairy sequence. Most surprisingly is how well the trolls’ visual effects hold up after fifteen years. It’s not all spotless, but on the whole, they remain impressive.
Vouching for a mockumentary about trolls isn’t easy, but those who do come around and give it a shot will more than likely be grateful for the recommendation. For Troll Hunter is a real find in that vast and varied genre we call “found footage“.

A bridge troll reaches up for food and finds Hans decked out in armor.
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